London

Goodness! How did I get to London so quickly? Haven't I missed out 9/10 of England on the way? Well, yes, except that London isn't actually part of Travel Britain. The fact is that I've run out of time for the current expedition; or at least, that I've chosen to reallocate my time slightly. I start a job in London in October, so I've decided to move down sooner rather than later and stake my claim as a Londoner. That, along with a couple of other small matters such as a trip to the Czech Republic, has put paid to Travel Britain for the time being.

And yet, of course, Travel Britain can never really end. I will always be shuffling around this island one way or another in the weeks/months/years to come. There are no real endings. I may even keep this page going to share pictures of Britain in the future.

In the meantime, thanks for following my meandering path over the last few months. Your company has been much appreciated, I can assure you.

The Memory of Place

Churches in York are used for many things other than worship: a coffee shop, an over 60's centre, a nightclub. St Mary's, Castlegate, is used as an art gallery, or "art space". This is the current installation, a pool of water with candles on it.

The Shambles

I lived in York last year, but never really took many photos, so it's good to return and do some proper "tourist" shots, like this famous medieval street, known as "The Shambles".

York Minster

York Minster, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

A classic view of one of Britain's finest cathedrals, York Minster.

A novel way of crossing a river

A novel way of crossing a river, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Me in front of the Middlesbrough Transporter bridge. They can't afford a proper bridge here, so they built a small section and move it across the river!

Whitby

Whitby, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

A day out at the seaside town of Whitby, setting of Dracula and a hundred fish and chip shops. As we walked up the pier, this replica ship came past. But James and Richard got a bit of a shock when I took a picture and, on hitting the button, the Earth shook with cannon fire! You can still see the smoke dispersing.

Update

After leaving the Isle of Man last week, I opted to return home for a short while, for a number of reasons: 1) because I have a hundred things to organise; 2) apple crumble; and 3) most importantly for you, I've finally got Google Map up-to-date. In fact, the map is so big it now stretches across two "pages", so unfortunately you can't see it all at once. Anyhow, the link is here.

The next excursion is Cleveland and North Yorkshire, and I'm off tomorrow. See you there!

Tynwald

Tynwald, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Forget Westminster, forget Congress, forget Athens, forget even Thingvellir (shame on you if you have to look that one up), what you're looking at the oldest surviving parliament in the world! Impressive, no? It's called Tynwald, and it's where every year representatives from around the Isle of Man come to promulgate new laws, and have done for the last...well, actually noone knows for how many years, that's the only catch. Manx people are proud of their political independence, which in practical terms means: 1) hardly any tax; 2) my vodafone sim card doesn't work, which is why all these blogs are late.

Vikings!

Vikings!, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

I know, I know, this doesn't look like Vikings, but bear with me. The outline of stones you see here are the remains of a genuine Viking ship burial. This was quite exciting for me as I remember studying it at university. The Vikings used to bury people in ships all the time back home, but never in Britain apart from right here, on the Isle of Man.

The Queen's coin

The Queen's coin, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Britain does its best to pretend to be as many countries as possible without the inconvenience of actually splitting up. A good example of this is the currency. What you're looking at is, at the top, a Manx note and, at the bottom a Scottish note. Interestingly the Manx one carries an image of the Queen while the Scottish one doesn't. I've also thrown in a Manx 50p and a Hong Kong dollar which I found in Edinburgh. Again, note that the Hong Kong coin displays the Queen, as it dates from before the 1997 handover to China.

Port St. Mary

Port St. Mary, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

I arrived in the Isle of Man last night in miserable weather. A good night's sleep, and suddenly it's gone all tropical. Look, there's even pine trees. One immediately noticeable feature of the Isle is how affluent it is. It's a tax haven, of course, and the gleaming, villa-like houses make a marked contrast to many of the other islands I've seen, with their struggling crofting communities.

Morecambe

Morecambe, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Having missed my ferry by about ten minutes, I'm stuck in Morecambe for the night (thanks, Virgin trains). For those of you who've never seen Morecambe before, it looks a bit like this. I'm staying in the pink house.

One more island

I've just spent a wonderful time on the Northumbrian coastline (see Bamburgh Castle below). Yet more spectacular beaches - the quality of British beaches is the one thing that has consistently continued to inspire me on this trip. But before I choose some more highlights to explore in England, I've decided to take a detour to one more island. Not a Scottish island this time, but the unique Isle of Man, sitting in the middle of the Irish Sea. I've got a ferry booked this afternoon.

The Isle of Man is a special landmark on this trip, because it is the first (and last place) I will visit that is not officially part of the United Kingdom. It has it's own, independent parliament, which it claims is the oldest in the world. More on that later. Pictures coming soon!

Bamburgh Castle

Bamburgh Castle, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Where do they find all these random rocks to build castles on?

Back on the road

Back on the road, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Every town has one thing that makes it stand out. It could be anything - a park, a church, a street, a tree. It's usually not something you expect, but you know it as soon as you see it, and then you go 'ah, so that's why I'm here'. In Berwick-upon-Tweed, it's the cascade of bridges that caught my imagination. The first was built on the orders of James I, in 1611. The one behind it is a modern road bridge, and behind that the magnificent railway bridge, built in 1847-50 by Robert Stephenson (with his bare hands).

The end of one country...

Sorry for the delay in replying to comments - you will see that I've tried to make up for it now. To tell you truth, six weeks constantly on the move has begun to tire me a little bit, although I think I can be forgiven this! I feel as though I've poked my nose into every nook and cranny in Scotland, and gotten a wealth of insights into the variety of people and places here. From the Munro-baggers I met on the West Highland Way to the communities buying their own islands and the budding golfers in St Andrews, and from the tower blocks of Glasgow to the flat pastures of the Orkney Islands, I have consumed more experiences than I can digest. At the border of one country and the start of another, I am therefore quite content to have something of a rest.

Don't worry though, Travel Britain will be on the move again soon. However, I have decided that it will be taking a slightly different shape. There is simply too much to see in these islands and it is hopeless rushing around hoping to take everything in. I've moved through Scotland at breakneck speed and it's still used up half my summer! So I'm going to approach England and Wales a little differently. Rather than trying to see a little bit of everything, I'm going to pick a few key places and give myself time to explore each of them, and catch up with some friends along the way. So, if you have any ideas of British highlights to explore, I'm open to suggestions. Looking back over this blog, I've also noticed that I have a lot of pictures of landscapes and cityscapes, and very few of people - in reality, the people I've met have defined this trip much more than the things I've seen, I just tend not to take pictures of them! Perhaps this is something I will try to rectify also.

Thankyou for following this blog so willingly this past six weeks. It's been great to know that people can be as interested in this land as I am, and sometimes it feels as though I've brought to all along with me. It's much appreciated. Craig.

Wallsend

Wallsend, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

No, this isn't an industrial wastelane. It's Wallsend, the home of on the left, one of the world's great historical shipyards, and on the right the excavations of the Roman fort of Segedunum, the eastern terminus of Hadrian's Wall. Also a surprisingly good visitor centre, which serves Thai curry for lunch.

Back in England

Back in England, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Six weeks ago, I left the comforts of the motherland behind for the wilds of Scotland. Now the lonely traveller returns, to the city of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, where I've teamed up for this weekend only with a couple of old acquaintances. Newcastle, the home of the resilient Geordies (even torrential rain couldn't stop them coming out in their droves to sample the Friday nightlife), has as its centrepiece 'The Monument', dedicated to prime minister Earl Grey. And yes, the tea is named after him too.

The border abbeys: Dryburgh

The border abbeys: Dryburgh, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

And Dryburgh, which contains the graves of none other than Sir Walter Scott and Field Marshal Haig (if you've ever watched Blackadder this will mean something to you).

The border abbeys: Melrose

The border abbeys: Melrose, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Last week you saw a complete, operating abbey on Iona. Today I'm in the Borders, a region ravaged historically by wars with the English. The famous border abbeys show the signs of it, although their ruined state lends them a certain romantic quality. This is Melrose Abbey, where the heart of Robert the Bruce is said to lie.

New Lanark

New Lanark, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Scotland is the proud location for four World Heritage sites. On this trip I've seen three of them: prehistoric Orkney, the centre of Edinburgh, and now this, the mill town of New Lanark (the other one is a tiny island in the middle of the Atlantic). And why is this mill so important? Good question. Aside from the fact that it's quite a big mill, which doesn't earn it world heritage status in my book, the reason seems to be that it's owner, Robert Owen, was quite nice. Owen provided his workers with good homes and wages, free health care and the world's first nursery school. As he rather frighteningly put it, 'society may be formed so as to exist without crime, witiout poverty, with health greatly improved, with little, if any misery, and with intelligence and happiness increased a hundredfold.'

Oban harbour front

Oban harbour front, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Oban is the main ferry terminal for the Scottish islands. There's nothing particularly special about it, but since today is the third time I've been here I think it's earned a photo.

A Reward

A Reward, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

After all your hard work following this blog for five weeks now, I think you've earned a nice classic sunset picture. Well done! This is Killoran Bay on the Isle of Colonsay. Go on, you know you want to find it on Google Earth...

Iona

Iona, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Another day's travelling yesterday brought to the Isle of Iona. A pilgrimage hotspot, being the site where Columba brought Christianity to Scotland in the sixth century, it is still home to an active monastic community. Walking round the abbey was a special moment for me, as I'm so used to seeing them in ruins. There is a real atmosphere of prayer radiating outwards, from the cloisters to the glorious beaches and beyond.

North Uist

North Uist, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

A slightly rockier beach on North Uist. The weather has cleared up brilliantly, which I'm told is quite unusual. Unfortunately, I've messed up my ferry times, so I'm faced with a dash down the islands to make the ferry tomorrow morning. But I've got a great bus driver, who keeps stopping to let us wander around and take photos. I read that it takes a long time for anything to happen in the Western Isles, and that seems to apply to bus journeys - it takes 4 hours for a one and a half hour car ride. And tonight I'm also throwing in the hostel towel and heading for a B and B. Maybe meet some locals instead of any more Dutch cyclists.

Beside the sea

Beside the sea, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Harris in the Western Isles is supposed to be famous for its sandy beaches. I was sceptical until today. You can't really see here but the water is incredibly clear, an azure blue.

A bothy for the night

A bothy for the night, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

... and my night's accommodation is here, a converted shepherd's bothy.

The Western Isles

The Western Isles, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Now this is an incredible place. A shortish ferry ride from Skye has taken me to the Western Isles, or Outer Hebrides as they are more prosaically called in atlases. The immediate sense of remoteness (and the wind) reminds me of the Shetlands, but unlike there, where the native Norn language has disappeared, here Gaelic is still going strong. They learn it in primary school, the Bank of Scotland is instead called Banca na H'Alba, and the safety anouncement on the ferry was given in Gaelic too. And the place looks a bit like this.

Cuillin and a rock

Cuillin and a rock, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

A cloudy day (I can't complain, I've had a fantastic week of clear days), so I couldn't get the fearsome ridge picture I wanted. But it cleared up a little towards the end of the day, so I got an ok shot of some of the northern Cuillin and I thought, what the hell, throw in a rock and it's almost a decent photo. Soak it in, because tomorrow I'm off to Outer Hebrides, and this is probably the last true 'Highland' picture you're going to get. I hope I've inspired you to want to come up to the Highlands if you never have before. I can guarantee they're even better in real life.

Skye

Skye, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

After a long train, ferry and bus journey, I've finished up in Portree on the Isle of Skye. But it is always worth it when you discover that your hostel has a view like this. It refreshes you somehow, more than any rest, food or drink could do. The mountains in the distant centre of the picture are the Black Cuillin, reputedly the most fearsome mountain range in Britain. I'll be paying them a visit tomorrow (of course), so hopefully I'll be able to get you a close up. If they look a tad too fearsome, there's always the Red Cuillin (on the left).

Glenfinnan Viaduct

Glenfinnan Viaduct, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

This is my poor attempt at the 'Harry Potter viaduct' picture. Maybe you should just go and watch the film.

Jacobite Steam Train

Jacobite Steam Train, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Heading to Skye today. Decided to splash out and take the steam train and ferry rather than the bus. Apparently it's 'one of the most spectacular and memorable rail journeys in the world'. At this price it'd better be.

Which season are we in?

Which season are we in?, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

The top of Ben Nevis - and yes, it really is still covered in snow!

From the biggest city to the biggest mountain

Wow. Yesterday I finished the West Highland Way, a 95 mile trek from Scotland's biggest city, Glasgow, to its biggest mountain, Ben Nevis. Because I'm a glutton for punishment, today I'm going to climb Ben Nevis as well! As the highest point in Britain, 1344m might not seem impressive to those of you from hillier parts of the world, but given that you have to climb it from sea level (yes, actual sea level - 0m), it presents quite a challenge to tired legs.

I can highly recommend the West Highland Way as a fascinating, but not too strenuous, introduction to the Scottish landscape. If you ever fancy exploring Scotland on foot and you have a pair of sturdy boots to walk in and a week to spare, this is where I would recommend you come. There is every type of scenery to see and lots of other Wayfarers to meet, with the occasional scary feeling of remoteness thrown in. Yesterday this was spoiled slightly by the presence of about 500 people walking (or running) the so-called Caledonian Challenge - a 56 mile trek in 24 hours (!) from the top of the West Highland Way to tip of Loch Lomond. And I thought 20 miles a day was tough!

Buachaille Etive Mor

Buachaille Etive Mor, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Anyone fancy climbing this? It'd probably be easier than pronouncing it.

Rannoch Moor

Rannoch Moor, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

One of the best things about the West Highland Way is how the scenery changes dramatically each. The first day was gentle pasture land, the second a beautiful loch, the third lush green valleys. Today the landscape is distinctly more barren and remote. This is Rannoch Moor, the largest moor (ok, ok, I know) in Britain.

Ben More

Ben More, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

These pictures are slightly misleading, in that they give the impression that I'm the only human being here. Actually the West Highland Way is busy with backpackers, of all different nationalities and ages. You find yourself meeting the same people as you pass and re-pass each other. Having said that, I've had a room to myself every night so far, which is ok after the packed dorms of the city hostels. Ben More is the name of the mountain by the way.

Glen Falloch

Glen Falloch, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Leaving Loch Lomond behind, another fine day heralds yet more spectacular views.

A view to remember

A view to remember, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

The end of Loch Lomond and nearing the end of a 20 mile walk. All I have to do is descend to the lakeside and raise a flag to summon the ferry to my night's accommodation. A fitting end to one of the finest day's walking I think I can remember.

Cloud free mountains

Cloud free mountains, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

As the title of this post suggests, I have found this to be a rare sight in Scotland. But not any more - may I present the first unfettered view of highland country this blog has to offer.

Loch Lomond

Loch Lomond, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Another, much bigger loch, this one Loch Lomond, the largest body of fresh water in Britain at 18 miles long - and I'm walking the entire length of it today! There aren't too many other people about as yet, but then I do get up very early in the morning.

Craigallian Loch

Craigallian Loch, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Almost as soon as I left the town I got treated to this view. This is still officially the Lowlands; the Highlands begin at a geological faultline a few miles ahead.

West Highland Way

West Highland Way, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

I know you are all bored with towns now (well I am) and are desperate for some more pictures of the wild Scottish countryside. Hence I embark today northwards on foot, on the 95 mile West Highland Way, back towards the mountains, lochs and glens. Pending decent weather, you can look forward to the highlights of this next wee adventure. This is the start of the Way, Britain's most popular long distance walk, in the pleasant town of Milngavie (pronounced mull-guy), on the outskirts of Glasgow. Here we go...

Glasgow

Glasgow, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Scotland's biggest city. Not much exceptional to see here, but it's a decent enough place. There was a half-hearted festival going on last, and this picture shows a netball game raising publicity for Glasgow's bid for the 2014 Commonwealth Games in the central George Square.

Wallace memorial

Wallace memorial, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Ok, this is a pretty boring picture, but I had to show you something from Stirling. It's a fairly historic place, being the site of the battles of Stirling Bridge (1297 - the Braveheart one), and Bannockburn (1314 - when Scotland secured independence), and where James VI, the first king of both England and Scotland, was crowned. This is the national Wallace monument, where among other attractions you can hear an animated Wallace bawling about how you'll never take his freedom, etc.

Edinburgh city

Edinburgh city, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Thought you could do with a panoramic shot to finish Edinburgh off. This is taken from the castle. Tomorrow it's on to Stirling.

Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

This is pretty impressive too. You could spend a whole day in Edinburgh Castle (if you really wanted). There's a lot of stuff - museums, restaurants, monuments, the lot. I spent about an hour there. My highlight is the Stone of Destiny. It's a rock that Scottish kings got enthroned on until the English nicked it in 1296. They got it back in 1950 but now there's no Scottish kings to crown.

Holyrood Park

Holyrood Park, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Edinburgh really does have it all - it makes you sick, doesn't it? This looks like the countryside, but no, it's a park in the middle of the city. I'm rather a fan of city parks (they let a city breathe), and this one tops the lot.

The big city

The big city, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

See if you can guess which city this is. I thought this spanking new parliament looked beautiful. What about you?

St Andrews

St Andrews, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

What a great town. History and golf are the centres of attention. This is the rather sad remains of the cathedral, once the biggest in Scotland - sad because most other city cathedrals in Britain survived the Reformation. The hostel is full of golfers from Australia and South Africa who all seem to want to become caddies. Oh, and there's also an ancient university. I just walked past the departments of 'Logic and Metaphysics' and 'Moral Philosophy'.

First name Scott

First name Scott, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

If you think I've come a long way, think again. This is HMS Discovery, the ship that took Captain Scott to the Antarctic (Scott is his first name actually; his surname is 'of the Antarctic'). Scott isn't from Dundee, but the ship is, so it's kind of a claim to fame. In the background you can see the Tay road bridge.

Dundee

Dundee, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

City's aren't half hard work. I've only been in Dundee five minutes and I'm ready to move on. Who put all these people here, anyway?

Update at Pitlochry

Well, hello there. I apologise for this blog being a bit of a mess recently. I've been out of internet access for about a week so updating has been tricky. Contrary to the header's claims, I am not still in the Orkney islands. In fact, I'm halfway down Scotland in the town of Pitlochry. I'm a little sore from having walked 50-odd miles across the Cairngorms in 2 days, but having just left the highlands I've finally got some city-life to look forward to instead!

Over the next couple of days I'll try and tidy the site up, update the pictures and map etc, and reply to some comments.

Pitlochry

Pitlochry, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

A nice little town nestled in the southern Cairngorms. The youth hostel here was very gratefully received, despite my room being packed. Many thanks to the girl on duty who let me stay up until midnight doing laundry.

Glen Tilt 2

Glen Tilt 2, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Thought you needed another view of this to make you jealous.

Glen Tilt

Glen Tilt, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Finally a sunny day! And to boot, a proper lush Scottish glen to enjoy it in. Today will be my last in the Highlands - the next venture is the Lowlands and civilisation again. But what a day to finish on.