The border abbeys: Dryburgh

The border abbeys: Dryburgh, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

And Dryburgh, which contains the graves of none other than Sir Walter Scott and Field Marshal Haig (if you've ever watched Blackadder this will mean something to you).

The border abbeys: Melrose

The border abbeys: Melrose, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Last week you saw a complete, operating abbey on Iona. Today I'm in the Borders, a region ravaged historically by wars with the English. The famous border abbeys show the signs of it, although their ruined state lends them a certain romantic quality. This is Melrose Abbey, where the heart of Robert the Bruce is said to lie.

New Lanark

New Lanark, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Scotland is the proud location for four World Heritage sites. On this trip I've seen three of them: prehistoric Orkney, the centre of Edinburgh, and now this, the mill town of New Lanark (the other one is a tiny island in the middle of the Atlantic). And why is this mill so important? Good question. Aside from the fact that it's quite a big mill, which doesn't earn it world heritage status in my book, the reason seems to be that it's owner, Robert Owen, was quite nice. Owen provided his workers with good homes and wages, free health care and the world's first nursery school. As he rather frighteningly put it, 'society may be formed so as to exist without crime, witiout poverty, with health greatly improved, with little, if any misery, and with intelligence and happiness increased a hundredfold.'

Oban harbour front

Oban harbour front, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Oban is the main ferry terminal for the Scottish islands. There's nothing particularly special about it, but since today is the third time I've been here I think it's earned a photo.

A Reward

A Reward, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

After all your hard work following this blog for five weeks now, I think you've earned a nice classic sunset picture. Well done! This is Killoran Bay on the Isle of Colonsay. Go on, you know you want to find it on Google Earth...

Iona

Iona, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Another day's travelling yesterday brought to the Isle of Iona. A pilgrimage hotspot, being the site where Columba brought Christianity to Scotland in the sixth century, it is still home to an active monastic community. Walking round the abbey was a special moment for me, as I'm so used to seeing them in ruins. There is a real atmosphere of prayer radiating outwards, from the cloisters to the glorious beaches and beyond.

North Uist

North Uist, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

A slightly rockier beach on North Uist. The weather has cleared up brilliantly, which I'm told is quite unusual. Unfortunately, I've messed up my ferry times, so I'm faced with a dash down the islands to make the ferry tomorrow morning. But I've got a great bus driver, who keeps stopping to let us wander around and take photos. I read that it takes a long time for anything to happen in the Western Isles, and that seems to apply to bus journeys - it takes 4 hours for a one and a half hour car ride. And tonight I'm also throwing in the hostel towel and heading for a B and B. Maybe meet some locals instead of any more Dutch cyclists.

Beside the sea

Beside the sea, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Harris in the Western Isles is supposed to be famous for its sandy beaches. I was sceptical until today. You can't really see here but the water is incredibly clear, an azure blue.

A bothy for the night

A bothy for the night, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

... and my night's accommodation is here, a converted shepherd's bothy.

The Western Isles

The Western Isles, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Now this is an incredible place. A shortish ferry ride from Skye has taken me to the Western Isles, or Outer Hebrides as they are more prosaically called in atlases. The immediate sense of remoteness (and the wind) reminds me of the Shetlands, but unlike there, where the native Norn language has disappeared, here Gaelic is still going strong. They learn it in primary school, the Bank of Scotland is instead called Banca na H'Alba, and the safety anouncement on the ferry was given in Gaelic too. And the place looks a bit like this.

Cuillin and a rock

Cuillin and a rock, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

A cloudy day (I can't complain, I've had a fantastic week of clear days), so I couldn't get the fearsome ridge picture I wanted. But it cleared up a little towards the end of the day, so I got an ok shot of some of the northern Cuillin and I thought, what the hell, throw in a rock and it's almost a decent photo. Soak it in, because tomorrow I'm off to Outer Hebrides, and this is probably the last true 'Highland' picture you're going to get. I hope I've inspired you to want to come up to the Highlands if you never have before. I can guarantee they're even better in real life.

Skye

Skye, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

After a long train, ferry and bus journey, I've finished up in Portree on the Isle of Skye. But it is always worth it when you discover that your hostel has a view like this. It refreshes you somehow, more than any rest, food or drink could do. The mountains in the distant centre of the picture are the Black Cuillin, reputedly the most fearsome mountain range in Britain. I'll be paying them a visit tomorrow (of course), so hopefully I'll be able to get you a close up. If they look a tad too fearsome, there's always the Red Cuillin (on the left).

Glenfinnan Viaduct

Glenfinnan Viaduct, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

This is my poor attempt at the 'Harry Potter viaduct' picture. Maybe you should just go and watch the film.

Jacobite Steam Train

Jacobite Steam Train, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Heading to Skye today. Decided to splash out and take the steam train and ferry rather than the bus. Apparently it's 'one of the most spectacular and memorable rail journeys in the world'. At this price it'd better be.

Which season are we in?

Which season are we in?, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

The top of Ben Nevis - and yes, it really is still covered in snow!

From the biggest city to the biggest mountain

Wow. Yesterday I finished the West Highland Way, a 95 mile trek from Scotland's biggest city, Glasgow, to its biggest mountain, Ben Nevis. Because I'm a glutton for punishment, today I'm going to climb Ben Nevis as well! As the highest point in Britain, 1344m might not seem impressive to those of you from hillier parts of the world, but given that you have to climb it from sea level (yes, actual sea level - 0m), it presents quite a challenge to tired legs.

I can highly recommend the West Highland Way as a fascinating, but not too strenuous, introduction to the Scottish landscape. If you ever fancy exploring Scotland on foot and you have a pair of sturdy boots to walk in and a week to spare, this is where I would recommend you come. There is every type of scenery to see and lots of other Wayfarers to meet, with the occasional scary feeling of remoteness thrown in. Yesterday this was spoiled slightly by the presence of about 500 people walking (or running) the so-called Caledonian Challenge - a 56 mile trek in 24 hours (!) from the top of the West Highland Way to tip of Loch Lomond. And I thought 20 miles a day was tough!

Buachaille Etive Mor

Buachaille Etive Mor, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Anyone fancy climbing this? It'd probably be easier than pronouncing it.

Rannoch Moor

Rannoch Moor, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

One of the best things about the West Highland Way is how the scenery changes dramatically each. The first day was gentle pasture land, the second a beautiful loch, the third lush green valleys. Today the landscape is distinctly more barren and remote. This is Rannoch Moor, the largest moor (ok, ok, I know) in Britain.

Ben More

Ben More, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

These pictures are slightly misleading, in that they give the impression that I'm the only human being here. Actually the West Highland Way is busy with backpackers, of all different nationalities and ages. You find yourself meeting the same people as you pass and re-pass each other. Having said that, I've had a room to myself every night so far, which is ok after the packed dorms of the city hostels. Ben More is the name of the mountain by the way.

Glen Falloch

Glen Falloch, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Leaving Loch Lomond behind, another fine day heralds yet more spectacular views.

A view to remember

A view to remember, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

The end of Loch Lomond and nearing the end of a 20 mile walk. All I have to do is descend to the lakeside and raise a flag to summon the ferry to my night's accommodation. A fitting end to one of the finest day's walking I think I can remember.

Cloud free mountains

Cloud free mountains, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

As the title of this post suggests, I have found this to be a rare sight in Scotland. But not any more - may I present the first unfettered view of highland country this blog has to offer.

Loch Lomond

Loch Lomond, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Another, much bigger loch, this one Loch Lomond, the largest body of fresh water in Britain at 18 miles long - and I'm walking the entire length of it today! There aren't too many other people about as yet, but then I do get up very early in the morning.

Craigallian Loch

Craigallian Loch, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Almost as soon as I left the town I got treated to this view. This is still officially the Lowlands; the Highlands begin at a geological faultline a few miles ahead.

West Highland Way

West Highland Way, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

I know you are all bored with towns now (well I am) and are desperate for some more pictures of the wild Scottish countryside. Hence I embark today northwards on foot, on the 95 mile West Highland Way, back towards the mountains, lochs and glens. Pending decent weather, you can look forward to the highlights of this next wee adventure. This is the start of the Way, Britain's most popular long distance walk, in the pleasant town of Milngavie (pronounced mull-guy), on the outskirts of Glasgow. Here we go...

Glasgow

Glasgow, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Scotland's biggest city. Not much exceptional to see here, but it's a decent enough place. There was a half-hearted festival going on last, and this picture shows a netball game raising publicity for Glasgow's bid for the 2014 Commonwealth Games in the central George Square.

Wallace memorial

Wallace memorial, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Ok, this is a pretty boring picture, but I had to show you something from Stirling. It's a fairly historic place, being the site of the battles of Stirling Bridge (1297 - the Braveheart one), and Bannockburn (1314 - when Scotland secured independence), and where James VI, the first king of both England and Scotland, was crowned. This is the national Wallace monument, where among other attractions you can hear an animated Wallace bawling about how you'll never take his freedom, etc.

Edinburgh city

Edinburgh city, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Thought you could do with a panoramic shot to finish Edinburgh off. This is taken from the castle. Tomorrow it's on to Stirling.

Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

This is pretty impressive too. You could spend a whole day in Edinburgh Castle (if you really wanted). There's a lot of stuff - museums, restaurants, monuments, the lot. I spent about an hour there. My highlight is the Stone of Destiny. It's a rock that Scottish kings got enthroned on until the English nicked it in 1296. They got it back in 1950 but now there's no Scottish kings to crown.

Holyrood Park

Holyrood Park, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Edinburgh really does have it all - it makes you sick, doesn't it? This looks like the countryside, but no, it's a park in the middle of the city. I'm rather a fan of city parks (they let a city breathe), and this one tops the lot.

The big city

The big city, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

See if you can guess which city this is. I thought this spanking new parliament looked beautiful. What about you?

St Andrews

St Andrews, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

What a great town. History and golf are the centres of attention. This is the rather sad remains of the cathedral, once the biggest in Scotland - sad because most other city cathedrals in Britain survived the Reformation. The hostel is full of golfers from Australia and South Africa who all seem to want to become caddies. Oh, and there's also an ancient university. I just walked past the departments of 'Logic and Metaphysics' and 'Moral Philosophy'.

First name Scott

First name Scott, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

If you think I've come a long way, think again. This is HMS Discovery, the ship that took Captain Scott to the Antarctic (Scott is his first name actually; his surname is 'of the Antarctic'). Scott isn't from Dundee, but the ship is, so it's kind of a claim to fame. In the background you can see the Tay road bridge.

Dundee

Dundee, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

City's aren't half hard work. I've only been in Dundee five minutes and I'm ready to move on. Who put all these people here, anyway?

Update at Pitlochry

Well, hello there. I apologise for this blog being a bit of a mess recently. I've been out of internet access for about a week so updating has been tricky. Contrary to the header's claims, I am not still in the Orkney islands. In fact, I'm halfway down Scotland in the town of Pitlochry. I'm a little sore from having walked 50-odd miles across the Cairngorms in 2 days, but having just left the highlands I've finally got some city-life to look forward to instead!

Over the next couple of days I'll try and tidy the site up, update the pictures and map etc, and reply to some comments.

Pitlochry

Pitlochry, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

A nice little town nestled in the southern Cairngorms. The youth hostel here was very gratefully received, despite my room being packed. Many thanks to the girl on duty who let me stay up until midnight doing laundry.

Glen Tilt 2

Glen Tilt 2, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Thought you needed another view of this to make you jealous.

Glen Tilt

Glen Tilt, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Finally a sunny day! And to boot, a proper lush Scottish glen to enjoy it in. Today will be my last in the Highlands - the next venture is the Lowlands and civilisation again. But what a day to finish on.

Loch in the mist

Loch in the mist, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Another grey day. The hostel weather forecasts have a section called 'chance of cloud free mountains: 20 percent', so that shows how bad it gets round here. Cheer up though, I got you a picture of a mountain loch instead.

Cairngorms

Cairngorms, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

I was hoping to get a good view of the Cairngorm mountains but it's just slightly too cloudy. This is the best I can manage. You might be able to make out some snow on the tops - it's a ski resort in the winter.

Scot's pine

Scot's pine, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

I've just said goodbye to my family, and I'm back in the mountains - the foothills of the Cairngorms. I think this is a Scot's Pine, but don't quote me on it.

Fort George

Fort George, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

The major piece of local history around here is to be the Battle of Culloden (1746), the last battle fought on British soil. We visited the battleground yesterday, but there was nothing to see except an old cottage that had nothing to do with the battle anyway, so I've got a picture of this instead. This is Fort George. After Bonnie Prince Charlie, the pretender to the throne, was defeated at Culloden, George II had this fort built to subdue the highlanders. Ironically, it now server as the working barracks of the Queen's Own Highlanders themselves.

Findhorn Gorge

Findhorn Gorge, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

A different side of Scotland, an attractive forest gorge.

Looking north

Looking north, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

At the top of the mountain now, looking north towards the Northern Highlands, sometimes called 'the last true wilderness in Europe'.

Up a mountain

Up a mountain, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

This is my family. We're halfway up a modest mountain at the side of Loch Ness. I'm not sure of it's name. It's quite exciting, as it's my first mountain since arriving in Scotland, and it's my little brother's first mountain ever!

The Great Glen

The Great Glen, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Looking across the Great Glen, with the southern end of Loch Ness showing.

Loch Ness

Loch Ness, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

I've come a long way south now, and met up with my family to do some camping around Inverness. Today we visited Loch Ness - you really can't get any idea of how big this is unless you come here. About 30 miles long, it holds more water than all the lakes in England and Wales combined. The views along the Great Glen, in which it nestles, are incredible.