The border abbeys: Dryburgh

The border abbeys: Dryburgh, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

And Dryburgh, which contains the graves of none other than Sir Walter Scott and Field Marshal Haig (if you've ever watched Blackadder this will mean something to you).

The border abbeys: Melrose

The border abbeys: Melrose, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Last week you saw a complete, operating abbey on Iona. Today I'm in the Borders, a region ravaged historically by wars with the English. The famous border abbeys show the signs of it, although their ruined state lends them a certain romantic quality. This is Melrose Abbey, where the heart of Robert the Bruce is said to lie.

New Lanark

New Lanark, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Scotland is the proud location for four World Heritage sites. On this trip I've seen three of them: prehistoric Orkney, the centre of Edinburgh, and now this, the mill town of New Lanark (the other one is a tiny island in the middle of the Atlantic). And why is this mill so important? Good question. Aside from the fact that it's quite a big mill, which doesn't earn it world heritage status in my book, the reason seems to be that it's owner, Robert Owen, was quite nice. Owen provided his workers with good homes and wages, free health care and the world's first nursery school. As he rather frighteningly put it, 'society may be formed so as to exist without crime, witiout poverty, with health greatly improved, with little, if any misery, and with intelligence and happiness increased a hundredfold.'

Oban harbour front

Oban harbour front, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Oban is the main ferry terminal for the Scottish islands. There's nothing particularly special about it, but since today is the third time I've been here I think it's earned a photo.

A Reward

A Reward, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

After all your hard work following this blog for five weeks now, I think you've earned a nice classic sunset picture. Well done! This is Killoran Bay on the Isle of Colonsay. Go on, you know you want to find it on Google Earth...

Iona

Iona, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Another day's travelling yesterday brought to the Isle of Iona. A pilgrimage hotspot, being the site where Columba brought Christianity to Scotland in the sixth century, it is still home to an active monastic community. Walking round the abbey was a special moment for me, as I'm so used to seeing them in ruins. There is a real atmosphere of prayer radiating outwards, from the cloisters to the glorious beaches and beyond.

North Uist

North Uist, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

A slightly rockier beach on North Uist. The weather has cleared up brilliantly, which I'm told is quite unusual. Unfortunately, I've messed up my ferry times, so I'm faced with a dash down the islands to make the ferry tomorrow morning. But I've got a great bus driver, who keeps stopping to let us wander around and take photos. I read that it takes a long time for anything to happen in the Western Isles, and that seems to apply to bus journeys - it takes 4 hours for a one and a half hour car ride. And tonight I'm also throwing in the hostel towel and heading for a B and B. Maybe meet some locals instead of any more Dutch cyclists.

Beside the sea

Beside the sea, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Harris in the Western Isles is supposed to be famous for its sandy beaches. I was sceptical until today. You can't really see here but the water is incredibly clear, an azure blue.

A bothy for the night

A bothy for the night, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

... and my night's accommodation is here, a converted shepherd's bothy.

The Western Isles

The Western Isles, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Now this is an incredible place. A shortish ferry ride from Skye has taken me to the Western Isles, or Outer Hebrides as they are more prosaically called in atlases. The immediate sense of remoteness (and the wind) reminds me of the Shetlands, but unlike there, where the native Norn language has disappeared, here Gaelic is still going strong. They learn it in primary school, the Bank of Scotland is instead called Banca na H'Alba, and the safety anouncement on the ferry was given in Gaelic too. And the place looks a bit like this.

Cuillin and a rock

Cuillin and a rock, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

A cloudy day (I can't complain, I've had a fantastic week of clear days), so I couldn't get the fearsome ridge picture I wanted. But it cleared up a little towards the end of the day, so I got an ok shot of some of the northern Cuillin and I thought, what the hell, throw in a rock and it's almost a decent photo. Soak it in, because tomorrow I'm off to Outer Hebrides, and this is probably the last true 'Highland' picture you're going to get. I hope I've inspired you to want to come up to the Highlands if you never have before. I can guarantee they're even better in real life.

Skye

Skye, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

After a long train, ferry and bus journey, I've finished up in Portree on the Isle of Skye. But it is always worth it when you discover that your hostel has a view like this. It refreshes you somehow, more than any rest, food or drink could do. The mountains in the distant centre of the picture are the Black Cuillin, reputedly the most fearsome mountain range in Britain. I'll be paying them a visit tomorrow (of course), so hopefully I'll be able to get you a close up. If they look a tad too fearsome, there's always the Red Cuillin (on the left).

Glenfinnan Viaduct

Glenfinnan Viaduct, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

This is my poor attempt at the 'Harry Potter viaduct' picture. Maybe you should just go and watch the film.

Jacobite Steam Train

Jacobite Steam Train, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Heading to Skye today. Decided to splash out and take the steam train and ferry rather than the bus. Apparently it's 'one of the most spectacular and memorable rail journeys in the world'. At this price it'd better be.

Which season are we in?

Which season are we in?, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

The top of Ben Nevis - and yes, it really is still covered in snow!

From the biggest city to the biggest mountain

Wow. Yesterday I finished the West Highland Way, a 95 mile trek from Scotland's biggest city, Glasgow, to its biggest mountain, Ben Nevis. Because I'm a glutton for punishment, today I'm going to climb Ben Nevis as well! As the highest point in Britain, 1344m might not seem impressive to those of you from hillier parts of the world, but given that you have to climb it from sea level (yes, actual sea level - 0m), it presents quite a challenge to tired legs.

I can highly recommend the West Highland Way as a fascinating, but not too strenuous, introduction to the Scottish landscape. If you ever fancy exploring Scotland on foot and you have a pair of sturdy boots to walk in and a week to spare, this is where I would recommend you come. There is every type of scenery to see and lots of other Wayfarers to meet, with the occasional scary feeling of remoteness thrown in. Yesterday this was spoiled slightly by the presence of about 500 people walking (or running) the so-called Caledonian Challenge - a 56 mile trek in 24 hours (!) from the top of the West Highland Way to tip of Loch Lomond. And I thought 20 miles a day was tough!

Buachaille Etive Mor

Buachaille Etive Mor, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Anyone fancy climbing this? It'd probably be easier than pronouncing it.

Rannoch Moor

Rannoch Moor, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

One of the best things about the West Highland Way is how the scenery changes dramatically each. The first day was gentle pasture land, the second a beautiful loch, the third lush green valleys. Today the landscape is distinctly more barren and remote. This is Rannoch Moor, the largest moor (ok, ok, I know) in Britain.

Ben More

Ben More, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

These pictures are slightly misleading, in that they give the impression that I'm the only human being here. Actually the West Highland Way is busy with backpackers, of all different nationalities and ages. You find yourself meeting the same people as you pass and re-pass each other. Having said that, I've had a room to myself every night so far, which is ok after the packed dorms of the city hostels. Ben More is the name of the mountain by the way.

Glen Falloch

Glen Falloch, originally uploaded by British Traveller.

Leaving Loch Lomond behind, another fine day heralds yet more spectacular views.